Step-By-Step Guide To Installing Laminate Flooring

Before You Start

Don’t skip the foundation work it sets the tone for the whole job.

Start by checking your subfloor. Whether it’s concrete, plywood, or even existing tile, it needs to be flat, dry, and stable. For concrete, make sure there’s no lingering moisture. For old floors, look out for squeaks or uneven spots those need smoothing out before anything else goes down.

Next, gather your tools and supplies. You’ll need laminate planks, underlayment (unless it’s pre attached), spacers, a tapping block, pull bar, and a jigsaw. Don’t forget essentials like a pencil, measuring tape, and a cleaning kit. Having everything within reach keeps the install moving.

Once that’s sorted, clear the space. Furniture, rugs, and old flooring out. Baseboards carefully removed if you’re reinstalling them later. Then clean the hell out of the floor. Any dirt or debris will make the laminate float unevenly and wear out quicker.

Finally, let those planks breathe. They need to sit in the room for at least 48 hours to acclimate to the temperature and humidity. Skip this, and you’re asking for gaps, warping, and regret. Take the time. It pays off.

Tools You’ll Need

Getting the right tools upfront makes all the difference. You don’t want to be halfway through a row of planks only to realize you’re missing a pull bar or your saw’s blade is dull.

Start with the basics: a tape measure, utility knife, pencil, and level. These help you mark precise cuts and ensure everything stays straight. For cutting the planks themselves, a jigsaw is your most flexible option though a circular saw can handle longer, straight cuts faster.

Installation tools matter too. You’ll need a rubber mallet, tapping block, and pull bar to get tight, clean joints without damaging plank edges. Don’t try to improvise here these tools are designed to do exactly what you’ll need.

If your floor requires it, grab underlayment and a moisture barrier. They keep things quiet underfoot, prevent vapor from seeping in, and help with plank stability.

One last thing don’t underestimate the value of well designed tools tailored for renovation. They speed things up and reduce mistakes. For a smart toolkit upgrade, check out these tools for renovation.

Step 1: Install the Underlayment

Start by rolling out your underlayment flat across the entire subfloor. Take your time creases or overlaps will come back to haunt you. Use a utility knife to cut clean edges against the wall, corners, and any fixtures. Only overlap the edges if your product tells you to otherwise, lay them edge to edge for a flat surface.

Once in position, tape down the seams securely with underlayment tape. This keeps things locked in place and prevents shifting when you start laying planks. Don’t skip this step, no matter how tempting it’s the barrier that keeps moisture out, softens footsteps, and adds the bit of insulation that separates a cold floor from a comfortable one.

Step 2: Plan Your Layout

Before cutting a single plank, step back and size up the room. Start by measuring from wall to wall in both directions this tells you how your boards will lay out and where cuts will land. Ideally, you want the planks to run parallel to the longest wall or in line with the main light source. This gives the space flow and visual balance.

Next, do a dry fit of your first row. Lay out uncut planks (no adhesive, no locking) to get a feel for the fit. Check what kind of width you’ll be left with on the final row if it’s looking too narrow (less than 2 inches), shift the layout and trim the first row down to balance things out.

This step might seem like a warm up, but it’ll save you major headaches down the line. Poor planning here leads to awkward end gaps and choppy looking floors. Plot first; install second. Always.

Step 3: Lay the First Row

Start in one corner of the room, placing spacers along the wall to leave a consistent expansion gap (typically 1/4 inch). This gives your flooring room to expand and contract with heat and humidity over time skip this step and you might hear creaking later.

Make sure the tongue side of each plank faces the wall. You’ll be connecting planks end to end, so angle the next piece slightly and click it into place. This locking mechanism is built to hold tight no glue necessary.

Keep going until you reach the end of the row. Chances are, the last plank won’t fit exactly. Measure the remaining space, subtract the expansion gap, and mark the cut line. Use a jigsaw to cut the board to size. Drop it into place and double check that all joints are snug.

That’s your foundation. If this first row is solid and straight, the rest of the flooring will fall into line.

Step 4: Continue with the Second Row

As you move into the second row, your main focus is strength and stability. Stagger the joints by at least 12 inches that’s the rule, unless your plank manufacturer says otherwise. This breaks up the seams visually and keeps the floor from forming weak points over time.

To lay a new plank, angle it into the groove of the previous row. Once it clicks in, press it flat to the floor. Keep the angle method consistent for each piece so the locking mechanism stays tight and secure.

Use a tapping block when needed. It helps snug edge joints into place without risking damage to the tongue or groove. Go easy with the mallet firm taps, not heavy whacks. Repeat this row by row, keeping everything tight as you go. You’ll get faster as the rhythm kicks in.

Step 5: Final Rows and Finishing Touches

When you reach the last row, you’ll likely need to rip the planks lengthwise to fit. Measure carefully and use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut them down. Use a pull bar to snug the planks into place since a tapping block won’t fit here. Patience counts tight seams are what make the floor look clean and tight.

Once everything’s in, pull out all spacers from the wall gaps. Reinstall your baseboards or moldings to cover the expansion gap. Nail them to the wall, not the floor, so the flooring can still float.

Give the whole surface a once over: are the seams tight? Any visible gaps or lifted edges? Fix what you can now it’s easier than redoing it later.

Done right, your laminate floor should look like it was installed by a pro. Clean, aligned, seamless. Nothing flashy about it just solid work that holds up.

Bonus Tip: Use the Right Tools

When you’re knee deep in a flooring project, the last thing you want is to stop and hunt for a better tool. The right gear won’t just make the job easier it’ll make it cleaner, faster, and more accurate. A solid pull bar can save you from cracked edges. A proper tapping block ensures tight joints without damage. And let’s not even get started on how much frustration a quality jigsaw can save you during tricky cuts.

Whether you’re tackling a single room or the whole house, investing in dependable equipment makes a difference. No gimmicks, just stuff that works.

Check out these tools for renovation that any DIY flooring project can benefit from.